A favourite Fitzroy pub is back, plus six other new-but-old boozers to spend winter in

“What I love about pubs is that you have the opportunity to take people by surprise and exceed expectations with the food,” says Dan Hilton, head chef and co-owner of the Cherry Tree Hotel.

“A lot of restaurants open with a lot of hype … and people go in with standards that can be hard to meet.”

The beloved Cremorne boozer has just reopened with a new team and look, and Hilton is upping the ante on the food. Regular pub grub sits alongside oysters with Vegemite hot sauce, and dry-aged pork cotoletta, Italy’s answer to the schnitzel.

The post-pandemic years in Victoria have seen a boom in pub revivals with cut-above dining and drinking, sparking a pub of the year award to be added to The Age Good Food Guide in 2024.

“The cost of living is hard,” says Hilton. Like most things, pubs aren’t as affordable as they once were but “they remain a more accessible option for the average punter”.

Here are seven recently refurbed pubs to try – and what they’re best for.

For a full-circle moment: Commercial Club Hotel, Fitzroy

Veteran publican Patrick Walsh left this Nicholson Street stalwart after two decades, but it’s been taken over by a former bartender, Jackson Morgan, who says he “learned to pour beers here”. With business partner Jim Goumas, Morgan has sought to keep the pub’s soul and community spirit intact, retaining the iconic concrete bar. The menu has been slightly levelled up with snacks like a kangaroo tartare tartlet, but there are also crowd-pleasers such as Friday fish ‘n’ chips (with a dimmie on the plate).

344 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy, commercialclubhotel.com.au

For a carnivorous comeback: Friendly Societies Hotel, Abbotsford

Dormant for two years, plant-based pub the Carringbush Hotel has been rebooted by Nathan Weston, the Cherry Tree’s former general manager, alongside his son Leo. Meat is back on the menu – see house-made beef and stout pies and pepperoni pizzas – and taps pour everything from Carlton Draught to Gippsland craft brewer Sailors Grave oyster stout. “The place barely needed a sweep,” says Weston, who’s given it a more loungey feel and installed the Cherry Tree’s old pool table. There are also three fireplaces to cosy up next to.

226-228 Langridge Street, Abbotsford, instagram.com/friendlysocietieshotel

For a superbly priced steak night: Cherry Tree Hotel, Cremorne

One of Cremorne’s few pubs has long been a watering hole for the suburb’s tech types, but after an art deco-inspired refurb by Studio Y, the Cherry Tree has emerged more food focused. On Wednesdays, all steaks – even the $58 scotch fillet – are 40 per cent off, and cheffy bites include Welsh rarebit croquettes. But you can still keep it simple with a parma in the front bar or a pint on the leafy footpath. Bonus: there are no weekend surcharges.

53 Balmain Street, Cremorne, thecherrytree.com.au

For plush pub dining: O’Connell’s Hotel, South Melbourne

After a short-lived relaunch by Morris Hospitality last year, one of Melbourne’s seminal gastropubs is now in the care of the Flying Duck Hotel team. Native Australian ingredients are a common thread on head chef Michael Conlon’s mostly wood-fired menu from grilled prawns with bush tomato to doughnuts with Davidson plum jam. Pub classics include a new take on its popular veal schnitzel, now served with a red-wine sauce.

407 Coventry Street, South Melbourne, oconnells.com.au

For bayside boozing: Hampton Hotel, Hampton

What was once Brown Cow, an all-in-one cafe, restaurant and bar, is now a drinking destination by the same publicans as Richmond’s Royal Saxon. At its centre: a sunlight- and greenery-filled atrium. Visit the pub for singalong piano nights on Saturdays, $14 happy hour margaritas on Sundays, and Christmas in July festivities such as a $30-a-head roast with smoked brisket, porchetta and all the trimmings.

382 Hampton Street, Hampton, hamptonhotel.com.au

For World Cup watch parties: Good Nature Hotel, CBD

Fed Square has said goodbye to Beer Deluxe and hello to Good Nature Hotel: a sprawling, family-friendly pub screening all the World Cup action. It’s another notch in the belt of Australian Venue Co, which has 200-plus venues countrywide. A new game-day go-to, it’s decked out with an all-seasons beer garden and a playground for the kids (plus there’s free weekend entertainment). And to snack on? “Tear-and-share” garlic bread.

Federation Square, Flinders Street, Melbourne, goodnaturehotel.com.au

For a prize-packed locals’ night: The Kingston, Richmond

After an overhaul that included ditching fine diner Marble and Pearl, new owner Chris Lorensini has taken this 1854-established pub back to its roots. There’s a weekly roster of trivia and dining specials peaks on Thursday, dubbed locals’ night. A spinning wheel nets three lucky diners anything from a pint of beer and meal through to $1500 cash, while a hefty meat tray is also raffled. AFL stars such as Geelong’s Bailey Smith, Collingwood’s Josh Daicos and Richmond’s Dion Prestia have lapped up the relaxed atmosphere recently.

55 Highett Street, Richmond, thekingston.com.au

With Donna Demaio