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It seems there is an epidemic of “sensitive skin”. When I ask Dr Yalda Jamali, a cosmetic doctor at Epios Cosmetic Clinic in Sydney, why she thinks this might be, she points out that there is a big difference between “sensitive” skin and “sensitised” skin.
“Sensitive skin is actually genetically sensitive – it’s skin you are born with,” she says. “It’s prone to redness, dryness and pathological skin conditions, like eczema and rosacea, and should be treated by a dermatologist.
“Sensitised skin, on the other hand, is skin that we have actually caused through the overuse of products with active ingredients, and the wrong routines, which have ended up compromising the delicate skin barrier.”
Things that can trigger a sensitised skin reaction include fragrance-based skincare products – always give these a wide berth; products containing too many active ingredients, such as retinol, acids (AHAs and BHAs) or vitamin C; over-exfoliation; harsh facials or peels; stress or lack of sleep; piling on too many products at once; alcohol-based toners; harsh soaps; UV damage from exposure to the sun; cold dry air and overheating.
Jamali says, “If a mess has been made of the skin barrier, I always say to stop everything immediately and focus on cleansing with a really basic cleanser.” Good brands for this, which you can find at most pharmacies, include QV, CeraVé, DermaVeen and Avène. We like DermaVeen Gentle Soap Free Wash ($20), which contains colloidal oatmeal, known for its calming, anti-inflammatory and barrier-repairing properties. It is also soothing and helps to reduce redness and lock in moisture.
The next phase of repair is to get a barrier-focused moisturiser. Try Avène XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Balm ($32). Key ingredients include I-modulia to help calm, cer-omega lipids for skin-barrier support, glycerin to prevent moisture loss, and thermal spring water, which acts as an anti-irritant. This is quite a thick balm so is great for nighttime repair.
The final step in the morning is an SPF 50+ such as SkinCeuticals Ultra Defense Facial Sunscreen SPF50 ($71).
Keep up this simple routine until your skin barrier has restored itself. “One great tip if your skin is feeling really compromised, is to use your moisturiser as a cleanser,” says Jamali. “This can apply to your body, too, if your skin is feeling tight and itchy.”
Telltale signs of sensitised skin include sudden redness, burning or stinging from products that never bothered you before, tightness or dehydration, flaking, increased breakouts or skin that feels hot or inflamed. Stop everything and implement a simpler routine.
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