Ten things we’ll never understand about Turkey

Istanbul is one of the world’s most visited cities and Turkey one of the world’s best destinations, but that doesn’t mean we always know what’s going on, or why.

The name change

The Turkish have called their country Turkiye since it became a republic in 1923. In 2022, it declared it would like everyone else to call it Turkiye too, for fear, among other reasons, it could be confused with a big American bird known for its stupidity. But could it really? And can a nation dictate what other people call it in their own language? Might as well insist we call Sweden Sverige or Hungary Magyarorszag too.

The popularity of Turkish delight

Look, I enjoy good patisserie-standard Turkish delight (lokum) with its rosewater or citrus flavours and embedded nuts. But let’s be honest, it’s mostly just chewy sugar and starch that sticks to your fingers and dusts your clothes with icing sugar. Cheap versions sold in supermarkets and souvenir shops are far from delightful. Its fame is even more perplexing when you discover the finger-licking scrumptiousness of many Turkish pastries.

The friendliness

Kudos to people that not only allow but facilitate military commemorations by nations that once attacked and killed them. You’ll find the culture of hospitality highly ingrained in Turkish culture and, though wavering, it’s still routinely encountered even in its most-touristed corners. If you need help, someone will help you. In more remote regions the hospitality is so astonishing that you feel you’re being scammed, but you aren’t. How can people be so nice to strangers?

Fear of the cold

Turkish people ought to be used to the cold. I’ve been to Istanbul in the snow and Ankara at minus 10 degrees. Nothing unusual, then. And yet everyone fears the slightest chill, and multiple layers of clothing (and at home, slippers) are the norm even in balmy weather. Draughts are anathema: don’t even attempt to open a window, or panic will ensue. Head inside or ride a bus and you’ll pass out in the heat.

Where Turkey belongs

We all as travellers want to pin a place down and pigeonhole it. Turkey leaves us baffled. It isn’t quite European, or Middle Eastern, or Central Asian, and it’s definitely not Arab. A quarter of the population aren’t even ethnic Turks. Its history is a dazzling collision of contrary civilisations. And then you realise this is what makes Turkey one of those unique countries. It’s just wonderfully itself, and defies all categorisation.

The thick black coffee

Think coffee and you might think of a smooth and unctuous cuppa that you can relax over for at least a while. Not in Turkey. Two tiny sips and it’s gone, and yet Turkish coffee injects enough caffeine and sugar to provoke heart arrhythmia and arguments. You’ll need to use the glass of water that accompanies it to wash the grittiness away. Avoid the dregs or you’ll be barking like a seal.

The ubiquitous evil eyes

I mean, it’s not hard to understand superstitions: we all have them. Turkish blue-and-white eyes made from glass are everywhere in Turkey (though often made in China) and are said to protect against bad luck and devilry. Harmless enough, until you see them dangling on bus and car windscreens on the assumption that the evil eye rather than the driver’s care will protect you on the road. Turkey’s high traffic accident rate says otherwise. Yikes.

The other coast

We tend to think of Turkey as a Mediterranean country, which of course it partly is. But eastern Turkey is a long way from the sea, and we all forget that this nation has another coastline entirely. In fact, its Black Sea coast is marginally longer than its Mediterranean coast. The region is wet, forested, tea-producing and has its own distinctive culture and stunning mountain scenery, and it gets far fewer tourists. There’s a whole other Turkey out there.

The silly ice-cream tricks

Sure, if you’re 10 years old, you’ll be amused by street vendors stretching, flipping and hiding dondurma (a thickened version of ice-cream) as you try and take it from them. But why does anyone older care, and why has this trend spread elsewhere? Yes, it’s a cultural tradition, but its eruption on social media from 2017 onwards has surely spoiled the fun. You’ve seen it all on TikTok, and now in real life it’s a little boring.

The sedate haggling

Do Turkish vendors really want to sell anything, or do they simply enjoy the repartee and courteous pavane of human interaction? In many places hawkers and carpet sellers can be aggressive and impatient. In Turkey they appear to have all day as they ply you with apple tea and baklava and enquire about your family. Sure, it’s all part of the hustle, but both parties feel good, and you’ll enjoy some of your most memorable encounters.