Luxury Australian lodge has bounced back from disaster better than ever

The stay

Berkeley River Lodge (BRL), Kimberley Coast, Berkeley River, Western Australia

Check-in

This proves less an admin process and more a sensory experience. It begins the moment I step into Kimberley Air Tours’ six-seater Model Cessna 210 at Kununurra airport. We strap ourselves in, put on our headphones and take off, flying north over the magnificent East Kimberley landscape. After about 40 minutes, the broad, brown Berkeley River comes into view as it winds its way to the Timor Sea. Curving out over the water before circling back to a red dirt landing strip, we catch our first glimpse of the lodge – a row of angular buildings perched like birds on the dunes overlooking the beach. On landing, we’re greeted by BRL staff with champagne, before stepping up into a large four-wheel-drive for the short journey through the dunes to the lodge.

The unfamiliar landscape looks perfect to me, but our driver is quick to point out the evidence of the impact of Cyclone Fina, which tore through the region in late November 2025, causing significant damage to parts of the Northern Territory and the Kimberley coastline. Berkeley River Lodge lost three villas, sustained damage to two others, and has had to rebuild and/or replace other infrastructure. More work will continue throughout the year, but to the first-time visitor it’s not immediately noticeable. The dunes – dramatically stripped bare in the cyclone – are now covered in tall grasses, and the lodge and most of the villas appear untouched (thanks to an intense five-month rebuild).

The look

Fortunately, plans for a reimagining of the lodge and villas were already well under way when Fina struck, which meant much of the new furniture and fittings had already been ordered. The week before the official season opening, some small touches – such as the BRL boutique and Kimberley Pantry – are being finalised, but the villas and lodge are looking beautiful. Berkeley’s new look is all about natural fabrics, materials and textures, and dusky colours that reflect the landscape. In the lodge, there are long timber tables for communal dining, leather and timber dining chairs, upholstered Kimberley-rust-red sofas, and a huge polished coffee table made from a gnarly log. It’s refined yet rugged chic.

The room

BRL’s 15 villas are perched on a ridge of dune leading away from the lodge, each offering an unrestricted view of the Timor Sea and spectacular sunsets. My villa is one of the furthest from the main building and although it’s only a short walk on a red dirt road, I’m taken there in a buggy. Inside my roomy villa, I find stylish bespoke timber furniture, timber floors, textured wool cushions, a pair of inviting armchairs and a king-size bed. On the deck, two wicker chairs and a lamplit table provide a place to admire the sea and dunes.

In an open cabinet there are two cotton robes and an umbrella, and in a drawer, organic teas, Kimberley Coffee Company coffee, a bottle opener, a pack of playing cards and a torch. There’s also a retro cooler which can be filled with drinks. Mine is kept stocked with sparkling water, but guests are free to request anything they wish from the bar. There’s no Wi-Fi or TV, but you don’t need manufactured entertainment with a view like this.

The room is beautiful, but it’s the private outdoor bathroom that captures my imagination. With a freestanding oval stone bath that invites bathing under the stars, a separate shower, and a basin, mirror and toilet, my only companions are the geckos and tiny frogs that occasionally wander in from the dunes, a reminder that I’m in their habitat, not mine. An outdoor bathroom in such a rugged climate can’t be totally luxe – there’s no escaping the dust, wind, heat, and a few harmless creatures – but bathing under the stars or the intensely blue sky as the sun sets or rises is a highlight of the BRL experience.

Food + drink

Newly promoted head chef Christian Iacovella hails from a town near Naples, Italy, so on one of the three nights I stay at BRL, we’re treated to an Italian feast. Iacovella’s team makes everything from scratch – from the pillowy wood-fired focaccia with tomato oil to the ricotta gnocchi with local chorizo, followed by matcha tiramisu. While most nights we drink Western Australian wines, a feature of the new wine list, this meal is paired with wines from Piedmont and the Veneto. On the other two nights we dine on a seafood feast, then enjoy a laid-back barbecue dinner featuring Skull Island tiger prawns and brisket. While we eat at a long table on the deck overlooking the pool (where the daily morning yoga is conducted) future guests will experience this menu as a barefoot barbecue on the beach.

In the evenings, guests eat together, but during the day the set-up is more flexible. Lunches can be as simple as an elegant baby heirloom beetroot salad, a tuna poke bowl, or a hearty Berkeley beef burger or house club sandwich. Breakfast leans on fresh fruit, yoghurt, house made breads and jams with the “build your breakfast” option of eggs any way and a range of sides – a good choice for anyone wanting a hearty start to the day. The open pantry offers all-day snacks.

The food is exceptional but not fussy. Iacovella is passionate about native and seasonal Australian ingredients, and he’s been given the freedom to use his talent to make it sing.

Out + about

Every day offers options to explore the river, the sea and the Kimberley landscape. On day one, we head down the Berkeley River, turning right into Casuarina Creek before disembarking our boat. We clamber up a rocky hill then hike for an hour or so to a calm waterhole where we can cool off. Along the way, guides Josh and Robbo describe how the landscape changes with the seasons, point out white-bellied eagles, shell middens, wind and sea-rippled rock and massive formations constructed like Jenga blocks. They lead us to cliffs and caves where still-vibrant Gwion Gwion rock art, estimated to be around 12,000 years old, is a reminder that we’re standing on ancient land home to the world’s oldest continuous living culture.

The river takes centre stage in many of our adventures. A fishing trip takes us deep into crocodile country, but Josh says we’re unlikely to see one, as the still-warm water keeps them deep in the river bed. Instead we find bream and pike, and in one glorious moment, one of our group snares a 79-centimetre barramundi.

Other activities include a sunset drive and sundowners on the beach, spa treatments (now in-villa since the spa was destroyed in the cyclone), a river cruise and safari drives. Apart from the hike, which may be a challenge for anyone with mobility issues, all are widely accessible. There’s also never a bad time to sit on your deck and watch the sky, sea, birds and weather, or take a dip in the pool.

The verdict

The new Berkeley River Lodge has come back from disaster better than ever, with a refined yet rugged luxury that never loses its sense of adventure or fun.

Essentials

Berkeley River Lodge is open from May 1 to August 31 each year and offers an all-inclusive five-night stay including accommodation, daily curated experiences, all meals and beverages, plus return flights from Darwin (or Kununurra, on request). From $9875 a person, twin share. See berkeleyriverlodge.com.au

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

Highlight
Hats off to BRL’s experienced global staff. Not only do they know their way around a four-wheel drive, boats, and hiking trails, they are great company. Professional yet relaxed, their love for and knowledge of the Kimberley shines through in every conversation.

Lowlight
No Wi-Fi or phone coverage is an essential part of the experience, but it would be useful to have a way to contact staff or call for a buggy from your villa, especially at night. Walking to the lodge in the dark, even with a torch, is a fun but potentially risky adventure.

The writer travelled as a guest of Berkeley River Lodge and Tourism Western Australia.