An overnight train between two great European cities saves on a hotel (and flight)

The train: European Sleeper

• Route Amsterdam to Berlin
• Distance 642 kilometres
• Operator European Sleeper
• Class Second class sleeper
• Frequency Three times weekly, departing 10.34pm and arriving 6.11am

The journey

Amsterdam to Berlin aboard the European Sleeper service ES 453, with a scheduled duration of seven hours and 37 minutes.

The station

Having caught a tram from my hotel to the ornate Amsterdam Centraal station – its palatial facade a riot of gleaming ornamentation – I use the ticket produced by my Eurail pass to enter the underpass connecting the platforms. It’s cold on Platform 8 but, despite the chill air, I enjoy the old-school sensation of waiting for a sleeper train that will convey me to another country while I snooze. Right on time, the European Sleeper (which started in Brussels and will continue to Prague after Berlin) arrives and I step aboard the one-sleeper car that’s part of tonight’s train, easily identifiable via its fluted steel exterior.

The seat

Cheerful Dutch steward Dylan shows me to the sleeper compartment I’ve booked as a “single” for my exclusive use, via a hefty €159 ($265) supplement to my Eurail pass (the other carriages offer five- or six-bed couchettes, or plain seats). I’m surprised by the generous size of the compartment in this 1955 Belgian carriage. It’s a proper little room containing a bed made up with sheet and duvet, a square table with an armchair, and an impressive cabinet whose doors open to reveal a washbasin, mirror and towel (the nearest loo is in the next carriage). There’s only one power point, awkwardly placed at the top of the cabinet. The carriage has been pleasantly redecorated in pastel tones and is clean and welcoming. I sleep well on my way east across the plains of northern Germany.

Baggage

No limit, as long as your luggage fits safely in the available space. Travel with a folding bike, snowboard or skis is allowed. Full-size bicycles can be booked aboard for a €19 ($32) fee between June and August.

Food + drink

The sleeper fare includes a welcome drink of your choice. Beyond that, there’s a limited food service via the stewards, though as catering ceases at 11pm, you’d have to order sharpish. Food options are basic, including nuts for €3.50 and noodles for €5.50 (also, cutely, playing cards for €5.50). There’s a range of beverages including the usual soft drinks, Belgian beer (€4), and 250ml bottles of French and Spanish wines priced from €6.75 to €8. Breakfast is included with my “Comfort-class” reservation, but otherwise costs €14. Dylan delivers it at 5.15am as we’re paused in the Berlin suburbs. It’s a cardboard box of mostly sweet items (including orange juice, Nutella, jam, muesli and yoghurt), with one savoury element: a bread roll and cheese spread. It’s pleasant enough, though I wouldn’t pay €14 for it; you could do better for that sum in the station food outlets in Berlin.

One more thing…

The train stops at a second Berlin station, Berlin Ostbahnhof, a mere 12 minutes after the main station Berlin Hauptbahnhof; so check to see if this is more convenient for your accommodation. (Note that when track maintenance is under way the train might stop instead at a single Berlin station, Berlin Gesundbrunnen.)

The price

Sole use of a Comfort sleeper compartment starts from €269.99 without a Eurail pass, or you can share with one or two other people from €139.99 or €109.99 respectively. A Classic couchette bed starts at €49.99, and a Budget seat at €19.99. Reservations on top of a Eurail pass are considerably cheaper. Buy tickets or pass reservations at europeansleeper.eu

The verdict

It’s great to be able to maximise sightseeing time and eliminate a hotel bill by travelling overnight between these two popular cities. European Sleeper is a comfortable and welcome addition to Europe’s ongoing sleeper train revival.

Our rating out of five

★★★★

The writer travelled with assistance from Eurail and Small Luxury Hotels of the World.