Adam Liaw puts his new beef stew through its paces to test which cooking method is best

2 weeks ago 21

As we move into braising season it’s the perfect time to master the art of the long simmer. Whether you prefer the stovetop, oven, slow cooker or pressure cooker, there are various ways to tenderise a meal – but which method actually reigns supreme?

In this classic recipe I’ve included several options so you can choose the technique that suits you best. In the masterclass beneath the recipe I’ll break down the pros and cons of each method to help you decide.

If you need a quick recap on braising and “the three Rs” (rest, reduce, refresh) before we dive in, read my beef Bourguignon masterclass recipe here.

Adding vegetables later contributes texture to this classic beef and red wine stew.Dion Georgopoulos

Ingredients

  • 1kg beef shin (gravy beef), cut into very large pieces (about 10cm steaks) for searing, then into 5cm chunks

  • salt and pepper, to season

  • 25g butter

  • Mirepoix: 1 brown onion, diced; 1 carrot, diced; 1 celery stalk, peeled and finely diced

  • 2 garlic cloves, sliced

  • ¼ cup plain flour

  • 2 bay leaves

  • 6 sprigs thyme

  • 2 tbsp tomato paste

  • 1 cup red wine

  • 250ml beef stock (see notes for slow cooker and pressure cooker)

  • 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

  • 1 onion, peeled and cut into chunks

  • 2 carrots, peeled and cut into 5 cm pieces

  • 2 celery stalks, peeled and cut into 5cm pieces

TO FINISH

  • 1 tsp red wine vinegar

  • 2 tbsp finely shredded parsley

Method

CLASSIC STOVE-TOP OR OVEN METHOD

  1. Step 1

    Season the beef well with salt and pepper. Heat a large, oven-safe casserole pot over medium heat and add half the butter. Sear the beef well in batches. This allows for a deep, dark crust without overcooking the interior. Remove from the pot, then cut into 5cm pieces.

  2. Step 2

    Add the remaining butter and fry the mirepoix for about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and fry for 1 minute, then stir in the flour. Cook for a further 3-4 minutes, until the flour smells nutty.

  3. Step 3

    Add the bay leaves, thyme and tomato paste; fry for 1 minute. Stir in the wine, then the stock, stirring well to incorporate them.

  4. Step 4

    Return the beef to the pot, add the Worcestershire sauce and bring to a simmer. (Don’t worry if the liquid doesn’t cover the meat; it will release liquid as it cooks.)

  5. Step 5

    Cover and simmer over low heat for 2 hours, or cook at 160C in a conventional oven.

  6. Step 6

    Add the large onion, carrot and celery chunks. Simmer or return to the oven for a final 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir the vinegar and parsley through and serve.

“JAPANESE BRAISING” METHOD

  1. Step 1

    Follow the main method through to the start of step 5. Simmer for 10 minutes, then turn off the heat and cover the pot with 3 thick tea towels to insulate it (or place the pot into an insulated shopping bag).

  2. Step 2

    Stand for 1-2 hours. Remove the insulation and simmer again for 10 minutes, then turn off the heat and cover. Repeat the process once more (for a total of 3 rounds of simmer-and-stand), adding the large vegetable chunks for the final round. Stir through vinegar and parsley to serve.

THE SLOW COOKER METHOD

  1. Combine the mirepoix, flour and tomato paste in a slow cooker and mix well. Cut the beef into 5cm chunks and add it to the slow cooker with the remaining ingredients, replacing the beef stock with 2 beef stock cubes and 100ml of boiling water. Slow-cook for 7 hours on low. Stir the vinegar and parsley through to serve.

THE PRESSURE COOKER METHOD

  1. Follow the slow cooker method for assembly, cutting the beef into 5cm chunks and replacing the stock with reduced liquid and stock cubes. Pressure-cook for 30 minutes, then allow the cooker to stand and depressurise for 10 minutes. (Cooking times may vary for different brands of electric pressure cookers.) Stir the vinegar and parsley through to serve.

Beef and red wine stew prepared using, from left, a slow cooker, a Dutch oven and a pressure cooker.Dion Georgopoulos

Masterclass: One stew, three ways

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Whether you opt for the intensity of a pressure cooker or the gentle heat of the stove top, oven or slow cooker, you can achieve a brilliant braise. The “best” method depends on your kitchen set-up and your schedule. Here’s how they compare:

Tastiest: Stove-top, oven or Japanese braising

Approximate power usage: induction cooktop 2kW, electric oven 3kW

One feature of braising is that a longer cooking time homogenises flavours, so a stew can often end up tasting quite boring. In these three methods (stovetop, oven and Japanese braising) the mirepoix is cooked to develop flavour, the meat is browned to add caramelisation before braising, and the larger vegetables are added later, allowing them to contribute their own texture.

These methods are the most hands-on, so it isn’t surprising that they produce a stew with the most dynamic flavour. If flavour is your top priority, pick one of these methods. 

The Japanese braising method involves insulating the pot between simmers.Dion Georgopoulos

Most energy-efficient: Japanese braising

Approximate power usage: 0.8kW

I should explain “Japanese braising” a little further as it’s the method I use most often for stews. Japanese kitchens are often small and don’t have ovens, so this is a clever way to achieve “low and slow” results without running the cooktop constantly. It was taught to me years ago as a popular technique for braising meat for Japanese curry, and it works exceptionally well.

The process involves a quick 10-minute simmer in a heavy pot, followed by 1-2 hours of standing, where the warm pot is wrapped in thick tea towels to insulate it, or slipped into an insulated shopping bag to retain heat, a process that mimics slow cooking. This simmer-and-stand process is then repeated two or three more times.

This method fits perfectly into a weekend routine, where you might be popping to the hardware store or running errands. You can spread the workload over the day, doing just a few minutes of “active” cooking at a time.

Beyond the excellent energy efficiency, those long rests between simmers allow the flavours to develop a complexity that you don’t always get from a continuous boil. For the best results, use a heavy pot – cast iron is best as it holds the thermal mass much longer.

Safety note: Please ensure you don’t have an open flame going when you insulate the dish like this!

The slow cooker (right) is less hands on. Dion Georgopoulos

Easiest: Slow cooker

Approximate power usage: 1.5kW

The slow cooker is by far the simplest approach, producing results remarkably similar to the classic method without the need for searing the meat or sauteing the mirepoix. My technique takes advantage of a common misunderstanding: while searing creates complex flavour via the Maillard reaction at high heat, those same reactions occur at much lower temperatures – they just take longer. If you compare the results, both stews are equally brown; the slow cooker simply achieves that depth over seven hours rather than 10 minutes.

The main reason slow cooker recipes are often criticised for lacking flavour is excess liquid. Because these units don’t allow for evaporation, the result is often diluted and insipid. The solution isn’t just to add less stock as you’d lose the necessary seasoning – instead, I use powdered stock cubes with only a small amount of water. This ensures the stew remains thick, rich and well seasoned.

My final tip for slow cooking is to cook it earlier. Stews taste better the next day because low-temperature Maillard reactions continue to increase the complexity as the dish rests. While there is a certain neatness to starting the cooker as you leave for work, your stew will actually be tastier if you kick it off the night before. Wake up to a finished stew, refrigerate it during the day and simply reheat it when you get home for a much deeper, more developed flavour.

The pressure cooker can produce excellent results quickly.Dion Georgopoulos

Fastest: Pressure cooker

Approximate power usage: 0.5kW

For sheer speed you can’t beat the pressure cooker. While it lacks a little of the textural nuance found in the slower methods, none of the other techniques can get a hearty stew on the table in under an hour. By following the same logic as the slow cooker – using stock cubes and less liquid to concentrate seasoning – you can produce an excellent, tender result even on the busiest weeknight.

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