A Michelin-worthy Mexico City taco icon is coming to Brisbane

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By day it’s an auto repair shop. By night it’s one of Mexico City’s most celebrated taquerias. This March, it will be riverside in the Queensland capital.

Matt Shea

By day it’s an auto repair shop. By night it’s one of Mexico City’s most iconic taquerias.

El Vilsito is the kind of place locals don’t think to tell tourists about, but then are delighted when they discover it all the same. Although that’s perhaps changing, with the restaurant, owned and operated by the Blanco family, recently appearing in Netflix’s Taco Chronicles and getting co-signs from The New York Times and the Michelin Guide via its bib gourmand awards.

After almost four decades in operatiojn, El Vilsito has become a Mexico City icon.Andrea Tejeda K. for El Vilsito

“I have a friend in Mexico City,” Katie Moubarak says. “She’s Mexican, not an expat, and has this incredible bar that she’s just opened. I remember meeting her that night and mentioned having had lunch at El Vilsito and she said, ‘Where did you get these recommendations from? That’s literally my favourite taqueria in Mexico City.’

“That made my heart sing. We’d found the right taqueria.”

The right taqueria for a collaboration at Howard Smith Wharves for La Mexicana, a new Mexican food festival that in March will run alongside Margarita Week, the partnership with Patron that in recent years has become a fixture at the riverside precinct.

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Moubarak, Howard Smith Wharves’ brand director, had been in Mexico City on food research trip. El Vilsito’s famous al pastor tacos lived up to the Michelin hype – “I remember that first bite and thinking, ‘Yep, this is it, the best taco I’ve ever had.’ And we’d been in Mexico for two weeks by that point,” she says – but it was also about the restaurant’s service.

These tacos have caught the attention of Netflix, the New York Times and the Michelin Guide.Andrea Tejeda K. for El Vilsito

“It was like walking into somewhere you’re already a regular,” Moubarak says. “It just felt familiar. There was this lovely beauty to it.

“We just started chatting. I asked, ‘Would you guys be interested in collaborating with us on a Mexican food festival in Australia?’ And that was it. That was in September so it’s come together relatively easily.”

Howard Smith Wharves has already imported four trompo vertical spits for the pop-up.Andrea Tejeda K. for El Vilsito

For La Mexicana, two chefs from El Vilsito along with Sandra Blanco, daughter of founder Juan Carlos Blanco, will work with local teams to prepare the taqueria’s celebrated tacos exactly as they are in Mexico City. Moubarak says there have been “countless” meetings to make sure the ingredients and produce are properly aligned, and that four trompo vertical-style spits have already been imported for the pop-up.

“Every single detail has been considered,” Moubarak says.

Opened by Juan Carlos Blanco almost four decades ago, El Vilsito operates out of a mechanic’s workshop in Mexico.

Juan Carlos and Sandra Blanco.Andrea Tejeda K. for El Vilsito

City, transforming each night into a restaurant proper. The taqueria has become celebrated for its al pastor tacos, a beloved take on the Mexican street food where marinated pork is cooked on a vertical trompo spit, before being sliced thin and served in corn tortillas.

El Vilsito will spend much of March in Australia, appearing at La Mexicana at Howard Smith Wharves before travelling to Manly Wharves for the Sydney leg of the festival.

Margarita Week runs Thursday, March 5 to Sunday, March 15, with La Mexicana operating March 5-8 and March 12-15.

Matt SheaMatt Shea is Food and Culture Editor at Brisbane Times. He is a former editor and editor-at-large at Broadsheet Brisbane, and has written for Escape, Qantas Magazine, the Guardian, Jetstar Magazine and SilverKris, among many others.

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