Manze

How often is food this high-octane served in digs this low-key? Or staff this laidback strapped with knowledge this long-ranging? And just what business does chef Nagesh Seethiah have rousing Errol Street with pop-ups and parties of such rare pedigree? Manze is big and bold, but the execution is astute.

Plump Goolwa pipis bask in zestier-than-average masala butter that beckons to be sucked off the shell. Blackened but blushing pink within, a pork cutlet’s subtle sweetness is offset by a sauce of sour greens. And greo, a semolina pudding, spices up your life with cardamom, bolstered by salty coconut sorbet and strips of tart rhubarb.

One of few mainstays is the taro fritter, a fried orb of golden goodness, which you’re encouraged to squish flat and swipe through the house-made hot sauce. It’s your portal to Mauritian deliciousness.

Good to know: When booking, it’s for the set menu only, but there’s a snack menu for walk-ins.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.