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At Gran Torino, Neil Perry’s Italian outpost in Sydney, the menu is strictly dictated by the seasons. This is most evident in his ricotta gnocchi – known in Tuscany as gnudi. These “naked” pasta dumplings offer the delicate heart of a ravioli without the dough, and are paired simply with the best tomatoes Perry can source.
The dish is a study in balance. “We love the richness of fresh buffalo ricotta paired with the sweetness and acidity of perfectly ripe tomatoes,” Perry says. “We only serve this dish when there are perfect tomatoes available. If the tomatoes aren’t great that season, we don’t serve it at all.”
He specifically chooses sugar plum tomatoes for their intensity. “They are consistently the best-tasting tomatoes we can find, with a great balance of sweet, sour, and umami that larger varieties rarely match.”
The secret to the light, pillowy texture of the gnocchi is restraint. Because the recipe uses very little flour, there is no risk of a rubbery finish. “The trade-off is that they are very delicate,” Perry notes. “You have to handle them carefully.”
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The key to pillowy gnocchi – whether potato, spinach or ricotta – is restraint, says Perry. Use only as much flour as needed to bind the ingredients. The more flour you add, and the more you work the dough, the more rubbery the result. For the best texture, mix the dough gently and stop as soon as it comes together.
For the base, Perry prefers buffalo ricotta over cow’s milk versions. “Ricotta is a pure expression of the milk it’s made from,” he says. “Buffalo ricotta gives a clean, sweet, milky flavour. Cow’s milk ricotta will work the same way, but it won’t be quite as sweet or milky in flavour.”
Ingredients
TOMATO AND BASIL SAUCE
25g extra virgin olive oil
10g garlic (2-3 cloves), finely chopped
500g small, sweet tomatoes, we use sugar plum cherry truss
½ bunch basil, picked (reserve a few leaves to serve)
RICOTTA GNOCCHI
500g buffalo ricotta
1 whole egg
1 egg yolk
65g 00 flour
50g grated parmesan, plus extra to serve
5g salt
½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
finely ground semolina (rimachinata) for dusting
Method
TO MAKE THE TOMATO AND BASIL SAUCE
Step 1
Place a wide pan over low heat. Add the olive oil and garlic. Cook gently for 2-3 minutes until the garlic is softened and fragrant, but still pale.
Step 2
Increase the heat to medium-high and add the halved tomatoes. Season immediately with salt.
Step 3
Saute for 5-8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Use the back of your spoon to lightly press the tomatoes once they soften, releasing their juices to create a light sauce.
Step 4
Once the tomatoes have just collapsed and the sauce looks glossy, stir in the picked basil and cook until wilted. Remove from the heat and set aside.
TO MAKE THE RICOTTA GNOCCHI
Step 1
In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, egg and yolk, flour, parmesan, salt and nutmeg. Mix gently by hand or with a spatula until just combined. Do not overwork; stop as soon as the dough is uniform.
Step 2
Prepare a tray with a generous layer of semolina. Scoop roughly 15g of dough (about a teaspoon), roll gently between your palms into a ball, and drop into the semolina.
Step 3
Gently toss the gnocchi in semolina to ensure an even coating. Let them rest at room temperature for 10 minutes. This “curing” step develops a thin, parchment-like skin that prevents the gnocchi from falling apart in boiling water. Use the gnocchi promptly. After about 30 minutes, the moisture from the ricotta will begin to hydrate the semolina, making the dough tacky and prone to losing its shape.
Step 4
If you aren’t cooking them immediately, arrange the gnocchi in a single layer on a tray lined with baking paper and freeze until solid. Once frozen, transfer them to an airtight bag. To use, cook from frozen.
TO SERVE
Step 1
Return the tomato sauce to the stove and bring to a gentle simmer. If it has thickened too much while sitting, add a splash of water to loosen it.
Step 2
Drop the gnocchi into a large pot of rapidly boiling, heavily salted water. Once they rise to the surface, let them cook for 1 extra minute to ensure the centres are heated through.
Step 3
Use a slotted spoon to transfer the gnocchi directly from the water into the tomato sauce.
Step 4
Gently shake the pan in a circular motion to coat the gnocchi. If the sauce looks dry, add a tablespoon of the starchy gnocchi cooking water and swirl until glossy.
Step 5
Serve 10 gnocchi per person in separate bowls. Finish with a generous scatter of finely grated parmesan.
